Hæ!
Just back from a weekend away in beautiful Stykkishólmur, hands-down the prettiest town in west Iceland. EPI has a group of friends from high school who meet up every year at least once (with spouses) and spend some time together. This was our annual outing this year, we stayed at the Foss Hótel Stykkishólmur, had dinner there one night, and the second night at the wonderful Narfeyrarstofa (nb. not an affiliate of either, just a happy customer).
The view from our room was of the, ahem, unique Stykkishólmkirkja church. Architectural Digest has named it one of the 10 most beautiful churches in the world, though not everyone would agree—some say it is one of the ugliest buildings they have ever seen. But there ya go, we can’t all have the same taste! 🤷♀️
Speaking of taste, we also went on a little excursion to the Bjarnarhöfn shark museum (I’m still getting the smell out of my clothes). For those of you who have not tasted fermented Icelandic shark … well let us say that it’s an experience. Sharks do not have a urinary system, and they dispose of waste materials through their skin. They also have a built-in anti-freeze solution, which is highly toxic, which is why shark meat needs to be fermented for several months before it can be eaten. It has a definite flavour of ammonia that many people find a little hard to, er, stomach. In fact, Icelandic cured shark—which we call hákarl—has made the top five list of the most disgusting foods in the world.
Anyway, it was a great weekend, and the Icelandic fall colours are so beautiful. Not the spectacular colour symphony you get on the North American maple trees, but still, very subtle and lovely, with red berry ling among the green and grey moss.
I leave you with two snaps of lovely Stykkishólmur, taken from the wonderful Súgandasey peninsula, opposite the town. Obviously there is more to Stykkishólmur than this, but it gives you an idea of the old renovated houses and gorgeous backdrops in the town.
Have you visited Stykkishólmur? Tasted hákarl? And what is your opinion of the church? (Note: though it is far from ornate or elaborate, the inside has a sparse sort of charm. Below is the altar, with the altarpiece depicting the Virgin Mary and baby Jesus floating in an Icelandic night sky. Note the bulbs hanging from the ceiling that are meant to represent stars.)
Did you know that Icelanders tend to have the same groups of friends their entire lives, from elementary or high school, onward? EPI’s group of friends is a case in point. 😍 For more intriguing facts about the Icelanders by someone with the “guest’s eye” (i.e. me, the outsider), might I suggest my Little Book of the Icelanders, or one of my other Little Books.
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Not a fan of hákarl (though I have finally learned a trick to eating it) but I love the shark museum, so yay! for promotin it. I agree with David Johnson's comment about Stykkishólmskirkja, it reminds me personally too much of American heavily evangelical mega-churches. But I'm a pretty old-fashioned gal.
I like the church, perhaps because it doesn't look like a church. Looks like a beautiful area.
Tried to eat hakarl both times I visited Iceland, but the ammonia smell screams poison to my hindbrain. I am embarrassed by this. Hoping to get back to Iceland for the eclipse in 2 years, maybe then.